My itinerary is described in my September 22nd e-mail, below. The actual distances usually turned out to be greater than I had forecast, sometimes much greater. I did not get the Bikeline cycling guides until I arrived in Europe, and had used Michelin maps to estimate the distances. I guess the paths tend to be longer than the highway distances, plus I would occasionally make wrong turns. The worst calculation turned out to be the first day, when I cycled 91 km but had forecast 60.
From Frankfurt to Thionville is all pleasant cycling. The paths are generally well signed and easy to follow, and the scenery is nice. The ride from Thionville to Metz was lousy! The Bikeline guide covers the Mosel from Metz to Koblenz, but the section from Metz to Thionville should not, in my opinion, have been included. Most of it is on streets, there are no signs, you seldom see the river, and the area is mostly industrial. Take the train!
The Marne au Rhin canal is cyclable from about 14 km west of Saverne, to Strasbourg. I believe there are some cyclable sections further west, but there is a tunnel that precludes through travel. The section I did, about 64 km, is almost entirely paved and in excellent condition.
Cycling the Rhine from Strasbourg to Mainz was anticlimactic. I did not see that much of the river and it was not picturesque when I did. The cycle route is partly on roads, although most of the roads have cycle paths beside them. The signs were not always great and I had to stop a lot of times to look at my guide. If I were to do it again I would probably not bother with the official paths and just follow secondary highways. I should note that I took a train from Speyer to Mainz, and the section from Worms to Mainz reportedly is pretty nice. However the section from Speyer to Worms, which goes through Mannheim, is reportedly unpleasant.
If anyone is trying to decide between doing my Austria trip of this one, I recommend Austria. It is a little more demanding because there are more hills along the Tauern Radweg, but I loved cycling in the Alps. However this trip, between Mainz and Thionville, and from Saverne to Strasbourg, is just as nice as my Austria trip between Salzburg and Vienna.
I recommend purchasing the Bikeline guides. It can be difficult to order them from North America so I waited until I arrived to buy them. They may not be easy to find! I bought the Rhine #3 guide in a bookshop in Bingen, and the Mosel guide in a bookshop in Koblenz. But the guides are not sold in France (I tried every bookstore I could find in Strasbourg) and I did not find the Rhine #2 guide until I got to Karlsruhe. I was lucky to find an inferior guide on a Sunday in Kehl, and it was better than nothing, but I would have probably avoided a 12 km wrong turn had I had the Bikeline guide sooner.
| Day | Location | Along Trail | Vicinity | Total |
| Day 1 | Walldorf (my hotel near Frankfurt airport) to Bacharach | 91 | 0 | 91 |
| Day 2 | Bacharach to Koblenz | 55 | 0 | 55 |
| Day 3 | Koblenz to Klotten | 48 | 0 | 48 |
| Day 4 | Klotten to Cochem (train to Bullay) Bullay to Bernkastel | 58 | 0 | 58 |
| Day 5 | Bernkastel to Trier | 73 | 8 | 81 |
| Day 6 | (train to Luxembourg) | 0 | 0 | 0 |
| Day 7 | Trier to Thionville | 87 | 10 | 97 |
| Day 8 | Thionville to Metz (train to Saverne) | 49 | 1 | 50 |
| Day 9 | Saverne up canal past Lutzelbourg, and return | 0 | 29 | 29 |
| Day 10 | Saverne to Strasbourg | 49 | 8 | 57 |
| Day 11 | Strasbourg vicinity | 0 | 12 | 12 |
| Day 12 | Strasbourg to Scherzheim | 39 | 3 | 42 |
| Day 13 | Scherzheim to Karlsruhe | 71 | 0 | 71 |
| Day 14 | Karlsruhe to Speyer | 66 | 3 | 69 |
| Day 15 | (train to Mainz) | 0 | 23 | 23 |
| Day 16 | Mainz to Walldorf | 33 | 14 | 47 |
| Totals: | 719 | 111 | 830 |
I wrote to most of you last year at this time, announcing that I was about to leave for a cycling trip through Austria. I enjoyed it so much I am about to do it all again, this time to Germany and France. This list has expanded somewhat, and there are now about 28 friends, family, colleagues, and acquaintances that are receiving this. I expect to write every 4 or 5 days, whenever I find an internet café, to let you know how I am doing.
I fly to Frankfurt, and will cycle down the river Main to the Rhine, about 20 km. When I say “cycle down the river” I mean along the cycle path that runs through the river valley. In Germany and Austria they are called “radweg”, and these countries have an excellent network, mostly along the valleys. Mostly the radwegs are dedicated cycle paths, but in places they follow quiet back roads.
I will then head north along the Rhine to Koblenz, where the Mosel River flows into the Rhine. I will then follow the Mosel Radweg in a southwesterly direction, through a principal wine-growing region of Germany. The city of Trier is along this route, a city established by the Romans and considered the oldest city in Germany. The Mosel then forms the border between Germany and Luxembourg, and I would like to go Luxembourg city, but it will depend partly on whether there is a safe cycle route. I believe it is only about 20 km from the Mosel.
Continuing up river, I will enter France and the river will become the Moselle. The cycle path ends at Metz, and at this point I will have cycled about 450 km over 7 or 8 days, and I may have taken a rest day or two. I will be away 18 days, but I won’t go anywhere the first day and it will take a day at the end to prepare tor the return flight.
From Metz I tentatively plan to take a train to Saverne, then I will cycle beside a canal to Strasbourg. Metz is in Lorraine while Saverne and Strasbourg are in Alsace. Strasbourg is beside the Rhine, and I will rejoin the cycle path, northerly towards Frankfurt. I may take a train part way, depending on the remaining time available.
On my second night I have reserved at a youth hostel in a castle overlooking the Rhine. I attach a photo. I have recently found out that the Mosel is very busy at this time of year because of the grape harvest and wine festivals. I would not normally book ahead but my schedule has me there on the weekend so I decided I better try. I have been unable to book accommodation on Friday, but recently found a hotel for Saturday. I also attach a photo of the hotel because it looks charming. The town is full of half-timbered buildings. If I can not find something when I arrive in my Friday town I have a plan B to hop a train.
I am travelling alone so it is great to have arranged to meet a university classmate while in Strasbourg. Barb, whom I have not seen in over 30 years, now lives about two hours away in Germany.
I leave in a few hours and the next time you hear from me will be from Europe. Please feel free to write, it is always nice to hear from people.
Well, I have arrived safely and am currently in town of Bacharach along the Rhine. Had an anxious first day because my bike was not loaded on the plane, but they delivered it to my hotel at 8:15 the next morning so I had just enough time to assemble it and do a full day's cycling. Did 91 km yesterday, which is the most I have done since I was about 35. I had expected to do about 60 but had to find a bike shop because my bike got banged around a bit, plus I had underestimated, plus the path must have been less direct that the road distances I had calculated,
Last night I stayed at a youth hostel located in Stahleck Castle. Built before 1135 by Counts Palatine of the Rhine, it was acquired by the Staufer dynasty, and they held a celebrated fairy-tale marriage within, ending a conflict between the two mightiest princely houses of Germany. In 1214 Emporer Frederick II conferred the title Count Palatine on the Wittelsback family, who retained the castle until it was destroyed by the French in 1689. It was rebuilt in 1925 as the youth hostel.
This section of the Rhine, between Bingen and Koblenz, is the most scenic because it flows through a narrow valley. It is lined with old castles, many in ruins, and toll houses where the Counts charged boats on the Rhine. The castles are always on the tops of cliffs, which is very inconvenient for us cyclists.
Had a good trio of dormmates last night, all Americans. Drank some local Reisling in the hostel dining room and had a lot of fun. Planning to cycle about 50 km today to Koblenz. Am pretty stiff from yesterday's long ride.
Have arrived in Bernkastle, an incredible town along the Mosel. A lot of it must have been built during the Middle Ages, narrow streets, half-timbered buildings, very beautiful. It is Saturday and it is quite a party town this weekend. Lots of people drinking is sidewalk cafes, and there was a band playing in the square. It seemed ironic that they played Its a long was to Tiperary, wasn't that a favourite of the Yanks in WW2?
It seems that 91 km was too much the first day as I have been struggling. Last year I did 89 km one day, but that was near the end and I get stronger as I go. The second day I did 55, with a helping wind, and I thought that would rejuvenate me. However yesterday I did 48 km, upriver and into a strong headwind, and I was exhausted again. Today I would have had 85 km but I took a train part way so I cycled 58. Little wind so I felt pretty good, but glad I did not try to cycle the whole way.
Yesterday I found a private zimmer for €18, and it was delightful. Tonight I am in a room I reserved for €45. My instinct has always been to not reserve because it gives me flexibility. Since there seems to be plenty of small places, I think I would have been better without reserving. I should really have taken 5 days to get here, not 4.
Going to Trier tomorrow, about 65 km. I am going to stay 2 or perhaps 3 nights and give the legs a rest. May take a day trip to Luxembourg by train.
Weather has been incredible. Cycled yesterday & today in short sleeves (after lunch).
I last wrote on Saturday from Bernkastel. The next day I headed upriver during another beautiful day. I had a pleasant 73 km ride to Trier, checked into the youth hostel, then cycled another 8 km getting to know my way around town.
I stayed at the hostel 2 nights and did not use the bike Monday. Instead I took the train to Luxembourg, except I got on the wrong train. It was not my fault - the signs were misleading. I got off the train at Sarburg, caught the next train back to Trier, and was finally on my way to Luxembourg 2 hours after my original departure.
As soon as the train crossed the border the language switched to French. Most of the place names near the border are German so I had expected the language to transition. Luxembourg, the city, is very cosmopolitan with more visible minorities than in Germany. I liked the atmosphere and felt
at home because I can speak the language a bit. Usually when I go to Quebec I find it takes me a couple of days to get a bit comfortable with French, but it was much easier after being in a German-speaking atmosphere for a week.
I did a walking tour of the old city and had seen enough after 2 hours. I then sat at a sidewalk café, enjoyed 2 beers, and the passing scenery. French-speaking women always dress to show off their figures.
The hostel in Trier was nice. My first night my dorm mates were from Columbia, China and Germany, the second night from Belgium, China (same guy) and Germany. The Belgians were hitch-hiking through Europe, which reminded me of my 1969 trip. The others were all students who had not yet found accommodation. One of the universities in Trier was founded before Columbus discovered America.
Tuesday I left my panniers at the hostel and rode my bike to see Roman antiquities in Trier. Toured the coliseum, the baths and a large assembly hall. Returned to the hostel for my panniers, then left at noon. It was another beautiful day and I wanted to cycle about 65 km. Unfortunately there were not hotels for about 40 km and I ended up cycling 97 km that day, including the 10 in Trier. Fortunately I had a tailwind much of the time, including the last 30 km, so I was not struggling at the end. ANOTHER RECORD!
Stayed at the hostel in Thionville, France, and would have stayed 2 nights but it was awful. There was a forecast of rain on Wednesday so I headed for Metz at 810 am, a short 36 km, and hopefully I would beat the rain. The route was not interesting, had no signs, and I made a lot of wrong turns. A light rain started at 1030 and I arrived at Metz at almost noon, after 46 km. I grabbed a train to Saverne, where I stayed last night and will again tonight.
Saverne is just over the Vosges mountains, so it will be downhill to Strasbourg. There is not much to see here but I have a day to spare before Strasbourg, where I have reserved at the hostel for Friday and Saturday. It is nice to get a rest, though I plan to go for a 20 km bike ride along a canal this afternoon. I have a hotel here, which is nice and comfortable. Tomorrow I will follow the canal the other direction to Strasbourg.
There is more rain in the forecast and it will get colder on Sunday. It is good that I came a week earlier than last year.
I enjoyed my rest in Saverne. I did a 29 km bike ride along the canal because it was very scenic in the mountains. The canal went through a tunnel and it was not possible to cycle any further.
The forecast for Friday was for rain. I was awakened in the night by thunder and lightening, but by morning it was just cloudy. I started out for Strasbourg at 900 am and the sun was partly out. It was warm enough to ride in short sleeves, and I did 30 km in 1 1/2 hours. I expected it might still rain and I did not want to waste time. The wind picked up (headwind) and it took me another 1 1/2 hours to go the 20 km to Strasbourg. Navigation was easy along the canal path, and very pleasant.
I have wanted to come to Strasbourg for many years, but I never knew why. I just sensed that it was nice and I was right. It has canals, charming streets, lots of cafe's, and is bustling. It is full of tourists, especially Germans because it is a long weekend there. The rain held off, the sun came out, and it was about 23 deg. I sat at a sidewalk bistro and ordered a large beer. It turned out to be enormous and cost 10.50 euro, about cdn$17.00. So I sat for a long, enjoyable time and finished it. Wait until you see the photo.
Today (Saturday) there are a few showers but it is still warm. It is forecast to turn cool tonight. The highs will be 11 to 13 next week, with both sun and showers possible each day.
Tomorrow I head north along the Rhine. I have cycled 570 km so far.
Sometimes I feel like a contestant on survivor. But I am now only 35 km from my hotel near the airport - will go there tomorrow, fly Friday.
The stretch since Strasbourg has been anticlimactic, but I had somewhat expected it. The scenery is not spectacular and the weather has turned. I guess it couldn't last forever.
On Saturday I had a great visit in Strasbourg with a former classmate and her husband. She lives in Germany and I had not seen her for 34 years.
Sunday I headed north down the Rhine but only cycled 40 km. There was a headwind, it was threatening to rain, and I found I nice hotel in a small village.
The next day I had a tailwind and cycled 70 km without the threatened rain appearing. Then it had rained a lot in the the night and was very windy, so I decided to take the train to my next town. Then, once the bike was loaded for the trip to the train station, the rain stopped and I said "why not just ride to Speyer". I was dressed in all my raingear and the wind was from the southwest. Of course it rained on and off, but I did not mind it too badly. But I did not doddle and did not stop for lunch, in case it got worse. Found a nice hotel, had a shower and dried out. I was more cold and miserable afterwards when I walked to a museum and dinner.
Today I had planned to take a train to Worms, then cycle to Mainz, but I wimped out and trained the whole way. It is another grey, blustery day, and more rain is promised. Hopefully I can look around town before it comes.
This is the last message from Europe. I will send another when the photos are ready.